November, 2009

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Bike Repairs Made Easy With the DIY Bike Repair Stand

Friday, November 27th, 2009

All bike repairs, from fixing a simple flat to complex derailleur adjustments, are exponentially easier with a proper bike stand. Good stands can cost $150 – $200 (like this one), but why spend all that money when you can build your own stand with simple materials easily found in your basement or garage?

Watch the video for info, and check out the writeup in Make magazine’s digital edition. Article starts on the right side of the page and continues to the next by clicking the arrow button on the top of the screen.

DIY bike repair stand

 

Biking from Tempe to Tucson-Route and Photos

Friday, November 27th, 2009

Eight years ago I spent Thanksgiving by biking across the Arizona desert, exploring the path from Tempe to Tucson. The ride was magically warm and beautiful, and the people I met showed hospitality that I will never forget, including the woman at the Circle K in Florence, AZ that laid out a buffet of leftovers for two sweaty, hungry bicyclists, and the two nice gals in Tucson that let us sleep on their sofas. They truly embodied the spirit of the holiday.

This year I find myself celebrating Thanksgiving in Tucson once again, and decided to re-post my original writeup and photos in commemoration of the anniversary. Two clean-shaven, baby-faced bikers blazing trails across Arizona. Enjoy!

Click to continue »

 

How Those Crazy Punkin Chunkin Machines Work – Cannons, Trebuchets, Centrifugals and Onagers – Behind the Chunk!

Wednesday, November 25th, 2009

Part of hosting the Science Channel coverage of the 2009 Punkin Chunkin World Championships with Zach Selwyn means I get to do a few web videos to explain the ins-and-outs of how the amazing machines at the event work. These web spots are called “Behind the Chunk.” Here’s what I filmed, with some further information.

Behind the Chunk - Air Cannons

Air Cannons: Consist of three components: Chamber, valve and barrel.

With the valve closed, the chamber (a large tank) is pressurized with a compressor that is a lot bigger than the pancake compressor you get in a kit from Home Depot. On the other side of the valve, a pumpkin is placed at the bottom of the barrel, which can reach up to 100′ in length. A good pumpkin will have a spherical shape that sits perfectly inside the barrel to allow the least amount of air to flow past it. The valve is opened as quickly as possible (the winning machines’ valves are hydraulically actuated), and the pressurized air rushes out of the chamber and down the barrel. The speed and force of this air is sufficient to shove the pumpkin at an incredible rate of speed. On the furthest throws, the pumpkins approach supersonic speeds as they exit the barrel – very impressive.

Example: Chunkonology

Trebuchets - punkin chunkin

Trebuchets: Consist of a counterweight, a throwing arm, and a sling

The simplest trebuchets work with the throwing arm mounted as a simple lever, with a huge weight on one end and the sling connected to the other. The weight is lifted overhead while the sling is loaded with ammunition. When the sling is dropped (usually through the use of a quick release mechanism), it lifts the opposite, longer end of the throwing arm upwards with considerable velocity. The sling that is connected to the throwing arm is whipped around with even greater speed, releasing the payload when moving beyond the threshold of an angled pin that keeps it in place.

A more advanced trebuchet design is called the floating arm trebuchet, where the counterweight is separate from the throwing arm, allowing it to drop in an entirely vertical axis to maximize the effects of gravity. Amazon sells a small floating arm trebuchet kit that can throw a golfball 200′. Merlin is a highly engineered floating arm trebuchet.

Centrifugal - punkin chunkin

Centrifugals: Consist of a car or truck engine, gearbox, series of propshafts and axles, and armature

Instead of spinning wheels on the ground, the centrifugal machines use the same machination to spin a windmill-esque setup hoisted 30′ above the ground. A pumpkin is cradled carefully at one end of the armature, which  is accelerated through the gears to maximum speed. Some teams add to that top speed by then pumping other accelerants into the engine just before hitting the trigger, which releases the pumpkin at a preset point in the spin. This point of release is ingeniously controlled by a repurposed auto distributor setup. At the speed when the pumpkin is released, it’s hard to not be afraid for your safety and everyone else’s in the immediate vicinity. They spin like a helicopter on its side. Inertia II is a new centrifugal machine at Punkin Chunkin in 2009.

Onager - punkin chunkin

Onagers (torsion catapults): Consist of a rope bundle, throwing arm, and sling

The twisted rope bundle is maybe the perfect form of energy to power a catapult. As the rope is twisted, it stores a rotational energy in what becomes a torsion spring. This rotational energy transfers directly to the throwing arm that is tucked inside it. The arm is cocked into the loaded position, the sling is put in place, and the ammo is loaded inside. A quick release is triggered, the rope bundle snaps the arm forward and the sling whips overhead, launching its cargo with incredible speed.

 

DIY Builder Holiday Buying Guide – Gift Tips

Tuesday, November 24th, 2009

A few Holiday suggestions that I’ve been enjoying this year, for the science geek/builder/pizza fanatic in your life.

Tools

Flexible screwdriverFlexible shaft precision screwdriver: Don’t tell Apple but I’ve taken my Macbook apart plenty of times, made easy with this mini-screwdriver. It has 6 double-ended bits: standard, philips and torx. The shaft can be extended out of the body to snake it around those tricky corners, great to remove that one metal strip that the RAM modules hide behind. I got mine at OSH.

Cameras/Video

Canon 7DCanon 7D: I don’t have this but I want it. Bad. Like, I might sell my Nikon gear because of this camera. Its the next step in the game-changing video enabled DSLR realm. And at $1699 for the body, you get access to film like effects that were only available on cameras costing over $100,000 a few years ago. Check out the sharpness and rich color.

Kodak Zx1: The Zx1 is Kodak’s response to the Flip. 720p HD video, and shoots 30 or 60fps. The video is sharp and clean, but like the Flip, the lack of image stabilization and optical zoom made me want something more. I got mine for about $100, but it needs an SD card so factor that in to the price.
I used it to film this clip of a catapult launching a bowling ball. Here’s another good example of its quality.

Panasonic FX37: I bought this directly from that desire for image stabilization and optical zoom. I dig this camera because it’s got a wide-angle lens that is fairly fast – more useful for low light conditions than the Powershots that I always buy, although not as impressive as the amazing Panasonic LX3. This FX37 is being phased out, so you can get some good deals on it. I got mine for $169 at Sixth Avenue Electronics.

A side-by-side comparison of these two cameras is on its way.

Pizza Supplies

Batali pizza slicerMario Batali Pizza Slicer: As mentioned in my post on building a temporary pizza oven, the Batali pizza slicer is amazing. $15 and worth every penny.

Bike Gear

Blackburn Mars 3.0 rear bike light: I wrote about this in Wired a few years ago. Still the best rear bike light I’ve found. $16. While at it, build your own mega-bright LED front light.

 

How to Clean the Stink Out of a Wetsuit

Tuesday, November 24th, 2009
Wool-safe soap from the 99c store and my inside-out O'Neill wetsuit in the sink

Wool-safe soap from the 99c store and my inside-out O'Neill wetsuit in the sink

Any regularly used wetsuit will start to develop a mildew stench, especially if left wet in the trunk of your car or floor of your closet. I’m no fan of squeezing into a bacterial bodysuit so I undertook a week-long project to de-funk my wetsuit.

The process: Each day I used a new method of cleaning, trying to determine which one was the best for bringing a fresh neoprene smell back to my morning sessions. This study was hardly scientific – there was no reset and no control group in any way at all. The only thing determined is, “can you really get the stink out of a wet suit?”

Here’s what I did:

Day 1 – Soak for 60 minutes with Seventh Generation non-toxic soap (30 minutes inside and 30 minutes outside), rinse in the shower. Surf the next day.

Day 2 – Soak for 45 minutes in Joy anti-bacterial soap (inside and out). Rinse. Surf.

Day 3 – Soak for 60 minutes in a mix of white vinegar and listerine. Rinse. Surf. This step seemed to make the biggest difference.

Day 4 – Soak for 60 minutes with generic Wool Wash gentile garment. Scrub with a very soft brush. Wow did the water turn brown.

After these four days of cleaning, I’m happy to say that the smell was markedly improved. I’ll be monitoring it to see if the smell resurfaces over time.

Read the details on El Porto Fridays: Cleaning My Used Wetsuit to Get That Stink Out

 

Build a 3D Camera Rig from Canon Powershot Cameras

Monday, November 23rd, 2009

DIY Stereographic Camera Shoot your own “In your face!” photos – very rad. This project is from MaximumPC.

Overview:
- Install the StereoData Maker script onto two CHDK-modifiable Canon Powershot cameras. The script allows the cameras to be triggered through their USB ports. The page lists the compatible cameras; I use the Canon A460 – it was cheap!

- Mount the two cameras side by side, on an S-bracket.

- Use an easily built, two-camera USB switch to simultaneously take photos. A 5v power source (three AAA batteries) will actuate the shutters.

- Process the photos using StereoPhoto Maker software, which calibrates the images and assembles them into a 3-d viewable photo, just like the classic movies.

DIY 3D photo

Up next: experimenting with the video mode of the cameras, then extracting the individual frames (easily done with Quicktime Pro), processing those with StereoPhoto Maker, and reassembling into a classic 1950’s 3D movie experience. Coming soon!

 

Skate and BMX Bike Ramp Plans Roundup

Monday, November 16th, 2009
launch ramp blueprintsOne of the best things about skateboarding is the DIY mentality that it encourages, from maintaining your board to building your own ramps. Nowadays, there are loads of skate and BMX bike ramp plans and resources online – here are my notes on a few of them.

Xtreme Skater: Seven free plans, from mini-half pipes to grind boxes. The plans include concise part lists and handy step-by-step instructions with many helpful photos. Currently, there’s nothing between their 8′ vert ramp and 3′6″ mini-half pipe, unless you modify their 4′ quarterpipe plans. The site also includes many useful tips on construction and materials.

Ramp Plans dot org: Compiles info about a number of different ramps that have been built with links to their construction plans. Not as detailed and navigable as Xtreme Skater’s site, but lists more ramp type options (the pool project is impressive). Their forum and FAQ are full of great information.

Skate ramp I built in 1987. I'm standing in the background.

Skate ramp I built in 1987. I'm standing in the background.

Whitefish Skateramp Company: Sells partial ramp kits and traceable plans. Plans cost around $50-$75 depending on the design. Partial kits come mostly-precut and pre-drilled – a handy resource for those needing to assemble a quick skatepark setup. They have kits for street ramps to half pipes, and will consult with you on bowl and full skatepark design. The 6′ tall half pipe for $960 is an attractive project, although sheeting, hardware, and freight quickly jacks that price up.

Skatoramps: Instructional ramp plan e-booklets for different ramp types, starting at $15. $65 buys you the entire collection. Claims to have the best design for a half pipe, with an estimated price of $600. At a narrow 8′ width, you should expect to double that price to make the ramp more skate and bike friendly.

OC Ramps: Another company providing pre-cut ramp kits. Currently, they only have grind boxes, quarter pipes and hal fpipes listed. 3.5′ x 16′ half pipe costs $3488, including surfacing material and paint, and free shipping. A great feature on the site: the slow-mo video box showing different skate tricks from lip-level (found on bottom of homepage).

Buildaramp: Downloadable ramp plans. $17.95 – $19.95. Check out their free bank ramp plans to get a feel for their products.

Custom Skateboarding: Free blueprints without instructions or details.

Easy Half Pipe: DVD, plans and instructions on how to build a modular and transportable 4′ tall x 8′ wide half pipe. $29.95

halfpipe_mini

 

Arduino RC Controlled Lawnmower Project

Sunday, November 15th, 2009

Using the guts from a push-mower, two wheelchair motors and a custom carriage, and some hand-built electronics, Instructables user Johndavid400 has created a radio-controlled lawnmower dubbed the Lawnbot4000. His detailed writeup is available here.

lawnbot4000
lawnbot motor lawnbot wheels lawnbot top

Background:

Most R/C equipment comes packaged for a single specific use, which makes it easy to use but is very limited in what you can do with it. So using the Arduino as an interpreter between the R/C system and the motor driver, I can use any motor controller that I want (depending on the size of the motor and power required), reprogramming the Arduino to supply the required signals.

What I ended up with:

After successfully hacking a few R/C cars from the thrift store, I got bored driving them around the driveway and I was having a hard time convincing my wife that there was any usefulness in the revived toy car. So I decided it was time to make my biggest chore at home, a whole lot easier and actually put my Arduino to work, and thats how I ended up building an R/C lawnmower.

While designing the lawnmower, I thought it would be cool to learn about the electronics that made it move, so I designed and built my own motor speed controller (or H-bridge) to power the lawnmower. I looked around at every H-bridge design I could find before deciding to go with a Mosfet h-bridge that uses both N-channel and P-channel Mosfets.

I built several different motor driver boards for this project, the first two were on Radio-Shack perf-board and the next 4 were designed using EagleCad and etched to a piece of copper-clad PCB, using the toner-transfer method. The most recent board is the one I use to mow the lawn as it has the ability to stay cool even while operating for long periods of time (30-40 mins straight) at 10-20amps and 24vdc. FWIW, I had to burn up a lot of Mosfets to find this out. If you want to see any of my other motor controllers, go to www.rediculouslygoodlooking.com and check out the Mosfet shield.

Here is what I bought already assembled:
- FM R/C transmitter and receiver pair from ebay = $40
- Arduino = $30
- I already had a used push-mower = $60

Here is what I bought and assembled into the Lawnbot400 (as I call it):
- (2) electric-wheelchair motors from ebay = $40 ea
- (2) 12v marine deep cycle batteries – Walmart – $60 ea new (used batteries might work)
- 36″ pieces of 2″ angle-iron (2) and 1″ square-tubing (2) from Home Depot = $8 ea
- 36″ pieces of 1″ angle-iron (2) and 1″ flat steel bar (2) from Home Depot = $5 ea
- (a lot) of nuts, bolts, washers, lock washers 3/8″ or 1/2″ with drill bit = $20
- (2) caster wheels from Harbor Freight Tools = $14 ea
- (2) drive wheels from Harbor Freight Tools = $8 ea
- (36″) 5/8″ threaded rod with several 5/8″ nuts and washers from Home Depot = $8
- (2) sprockets from Allelectronics = $5 ea
- #25 roller chain and a few universal links from Allelectronics = $10 for 3′
- sprockets from Electronics Goldmine = $1.50 ea
- (24) mosfets from Digikey = $1 ea
- (there were quite a few small parts for building the H-bridge, they are listed later on)

 

Make Your Own Mega-LED Bike Light

Tuesday, November 10th, 2009

High-powered ultra bright LEDs, a series of lenses, and a home-built power supply. Aluminum heatsink and a flashlight casing, mounted to your bike for incredible night biking fun.

The instructions for this DIY bike light are written in Finnish, and the translation isn’t perfect, but the photos have enough guidance to help you put together a blindingly powerful setup that lights the trails to near daylight.

DIYbikelight01DIYbikelight02

180 meters away from the birch stand out clearly. Power LEDs in these pictures is only 0.9 amps, because the available AA-size cells would otherwise run out too quickly. Now, on a single charge to drive about 1.5 hours and the light is still very adequate. Full power, or 2 amps of power I use a lithium battery that is also lighter.

DIYbikelight03DIYbikelight04

A comprehensive list of other DIY LED bike lights can be found at yojimg.net.

Related: This is the best tail light I’ve found: the Blackburn Mars 3.0. The awesome amber side LEDs were the key selling point (not to mention it’s only $16). I’ve had mine four years and still running strong. And, I reviewed it in WIRED when I was working there (link).

 

Build a Six-Wheel-Drive ATV for Go Anywhere Fun

Tuesday, November 3rd, 2009

Six Wheel ATV 02

A step up from the go-kart that we all built as kids (and some of us still do…), this vintage DIY six wheeler is a great father-son project for cruising around the neighborhood and out into the trails. Uses a transaxle automatic transmission to act as a clutch, transmission, and differential all in one unit. Controls and steering are tank-like, two levers control the two sides of wheels. Seems that the TAT is the hardest part to source, but some searching suggests that an 1970 beetle may have used this unit.

Scanned PDF instructions from the original writeup in Mechanix Illustrated (January 1970) are posted on Vintage Projects.com. Sadly, I don’t think the $5 plans offered in the article are still available.

Monthly Giveaway! Every month I’m giving away a nice prize for helping support DO IT and spreading the DIY love. Here’s how to get in on the action.